Pergamum

After Assos my next big stop was Pergamum, or the modern city of Bergama. Pergamum was a very important city in the ancient world, especially pertaining to the Roman occupation of Asia Minor, as it was a capital. Now it is a small and rather poor city. It is not really a tourist city, as is it is not on the coast, and the big tourist buses tend to say at water front resorts in the evenings. It is also often altogether skipped, which is a shame, for it is an excellent site with a good deal to see. There are two main areas for ruins- the Acropolis and the Asclepium (healing center), which are quite a distance from each other.
It is a so infrequently visited place that most of the major bus companies don’t actually stop in the city; rather they drop you off a few kilometers outside of town to wait for a mini-bus. When I got off the bus I noticed another couple departing at the same time. It turned out that not only were they from Canada, but they were from Winnipeg. After some brief introductory questions we found out that of course we knew some of the same people, which is almost always going to be the case with people from Winnipeg. I spent the afternoon touring the Asclepium with them then we met again for a Turkish super. Unfortunately we could not find any good restaurants where we were looking, for it wasn’t until I had been there for a while that I found the better ones. It was great for me to have the company, for there is often an immediate comfort and trust that one feels towards people from one’s home town. It was also a great chance for me to share some of my reflections about Turkey, for they had only been in the country for a short time and were very curious. They were only staying for one night, which was unfortunate because I missed the company, and they missed a chance to see a great historical site.
The second day I got up as early as I could and walked the 7km up the hill to the acropolis. I figured that was how the original inhabitants got there, and I was too cheap to get a cab. The site was marvelous and very quite. I was able to take my time and wander around the various levels without having my meditation disrupted by crowds. The panoramic view was also spectacular, as the Greeks had a great sense of finding scenic sites to build temples.
I am finding that there are generally a few typical things that one will find in these ancient cities: baths, a public fountain, a gymnasium, a senate house, a theatre, perhaps a few houses, defense walls, a promenade, remains of a Byzantine Church and of course the remnants of a temple to the patron god or goddess of the city. The following are some of those that I saw in Pergamum.

Baths at the Asclepium

Part of a temple to Trajan

Part of a temple to Athena

more columns

A walk way under the temple

A promenade. Originally the pillars would have contained statues (many of which are now in Berlin)

One the third day I did not do much, the only thing I saw was the Red Basilica. This was a notable thing to see, though for it perfectly represented the succession of religions in the area. Originally there was a massive temple to the Egyptian god Serapis. The inner sanctuary was then converted into a very large Byzantine Basilica, which may have been one of the largest of its day. Off to the side, in what would have been a chapel or something of that sort, there is a small mosque that is still in use today although it looks quite decrepit.

These are two photos taken from inside the basilica

I spent three days there, which gave me an excellent chance to catch up on some reading and writing, and to get to know the owners of the pension a little. They were some of the most hospitable pension owners I have met so far in Turkey. I am learning that what makes a trip enjoyable and a place memorial is not necessarily the sites but the people as well. Bergama is not an exciting city and it is very poor (there are many people who use horse drawn carts as their primary mode of transportation), however I did not have a single hassle there and felt very comfortable. I am now in the tourist town of Seljuk (adjacent to the ruins of Ephesus) and I am finding it almost the opposite. It is true that there are more impressive things to see, but here nearly everyone I have had to deal with is a little shifty and I have ran into numerous conmen. On the surface this is a far nicer place, but at this point I am finding that sincere and genuine people are more worth meeting then fantastic ruins are worth seeing.